Areia Branca

Wow, what is it now…the end of May?!? Only 2 months left before I have been in West Africa for a year? Challenging, exhausting (both mentally and physically), down right fun and still the best decision in my life thus far are only a few ways to describe what/how I am feeling at this point.

Everyday is different, which I love. Expectations are completely thrown out the window here, but as Steven Covey says in his book, 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, you need to remember the aspect of expectation vs. reality. The reality is that this is a different culture and “normal” activity (for however one can define it) is different than what I am used to. I can find myself loading into the back of a truck with 15 others in order to get to the next town. Every so often I am loading into a 15 passenger van that has 25 people squished in for a 2 hour trip across the island to the capital. Sometimes instead of biking to work I decide to make the trek by foot, enjoying greeting others in the road, looking off at the distant mountains or Fogo in the background. I am given a “blessing” at least once a day by an older person wishing me good health, life, etc. Frequently people call me Portuguese, Brazilian then French, until I tell them I am from America. I have been to visitations/funerals of which close friends have lost a family member and I cannot say more than I have never had such a cultural/emotional experience prior. Tradition holds many cultural values here. I take a bath out outside out of a bucket at the back of my house where I also do laundry the old fashioned way with a washing board. My diet consists of rice, beans and fish. I have learned to eat an entire fish, from head to tail and find myself craving rice and beans. Of course, I am enjoying every experience. Unemployment rate is sky rocket high, which leaves many men wondering the streets, sober or drunk (mostly the latter). For the most part they are harmless and if I am approached it is proceeded by a marriage proposal to be taken to America. No worries parents, I haven’t accepted any. Boys can be found playing in the streets daily with no chores to be done or male role models to learn from. This, no doubt, contributes to an increase in unemployment. Men in Tarrafal who work do so mainly by fishing or farming. There is an equal amount of men and women teaching in schools, however many of the teachers here come from the Northern islands where education is profoundly better. Women and girls do laundry, house chores and gather wood for cooking over a fire. The poorer families who live more on the outskirts of Tarrafal rarely use stoves because of gas costs. So, time is spent gathering wood from the mountain side. Many women also collect fish daily at the beach from the fishermen and walk around town or sit at the market to sell. In Colonato, you can find families working together growing crops. For a Cape Verdean, the day is centered on preparing meals, cleaning and visiting. You can sit for hours on a street side curb, a nearby rock, a front porch, a roof or under a tree and pass the time in simple fashion.

My day to day is constantly changing but for the time being I have somewhat of a “routine” work schedule. Since I last posted I have picked up various side projects and not really sure if I am doing anything that I last talked about...locals have expressed needs and I am doing my best to provide what I can offer. For about a month and a half I have been teaching English Monday and Wednesday mornings in an elementary school located in the next town. I am currently teaching four 6th grade classes. English is officially taught beginning in 7th grade (secondary school) but Cape Verde would eventually like to start teaching in the primary schools and is using Peace Corps Volunteers as a pilot program. In addition, I am giving a three month English course in Colonato for agriculturists. We meet twice a week and I have a dedicated 6 students attending. This has been challenging because most agriculturists don’t have an education, can hardly read or write in their own language and the concept of studying and exercising the brain is foreign. However, recently my students have been able to answer questions correctly and form audible sentences in English…obviously the product of studying and dedication. When I left class one day you could see a tear drop run down my cheek because I was proud of how much effort they are putting forth to learn. In a society that lacks motivation to complete anything, this touched my heart and reminded myself of why I am here. Although this is a tiny step, at least it is a step in the right direction when most opt to go the other way.

I am also putting together a statistical report on water usage and price for the farmers association I am affiliated with. This report includes data for all agriculturists during 2008 and 2009. Once this report is complete (nearly done!) I will be designing an excel spreadsheet for entering data more efficiently and drawing statistics. Then, I will hold a training session for colleagues within the association on how to use Microsoft Excel for inputting data and forming statistics. This data can be later used when comparing water usage and price before and after the association’s completion of their water distribution project with the African Development Fund. Another volunteer, a professor in Tarrafal and I are still gathering data and drawing up proposal ideas for building a school garden. We are now collaborating with the United Nations in implementing an environmental education /growing and harvesting vegetables program directly correlated with the students.

When not teaching or working on projects I stroll around town talking to those I know and those I don’t. People often tell me to go home or that I live in the streets (all in good humor) because I am constantly here and there. Nearly every weekend I spend time with my friend’s family who live on the outskirts of Tarrafal. To be quite honest, my favorite past time is sitting and visiting with her family and watching Tom & Jerry episodes with her 6 year old son, or taking him to the beach for swimming lessons. Other times I sit and watch the ocean, sunset, fishermen or clouds roll by. In July I will be heading to the volcanic island, Fogo! It is located just west of Santiago and last erupted in 1995. I am going with the other volunteer from Tarrafal, Nico, and a Cape Verdean friend who is from Tarrafal. We will be spending a week hiking various routes on the island as well as taking a hike to the top of the volcano! Once at the top I plan on inconspicuously placing a volcanic rock in my pack to give to my cousin when I return to the states. Another volunteer is located in an area where they grow grapes to produce wine. Fogo wine is delectable. No comparison. So, we will be spending a day or so touring his site and learning about production.

Coming from a world where you don’t need to worry about kids stealing candy from the store, but rather stealing mangos from the mango trees. Until next time…